Lonely Planet’s Senior Director of Content recently returned from an 11-day cruise through the Western Mediterranean. Here she shares some of the highlights of the trip and offers tips for travelling with older parents.

For as long as I can remember, my 83-year-old mother Positano, Italy. She is not alone, mind you; this picturesque place on the Amalfi Coast has attracted everyone from Goethe to John Steinbeck to Jacqueline and Aristotle Onassis – his credibility and popularity are undeniable.

I had been racking my brains for years about how I could get her there, even for just an afternoon, but the idea gave me a headache. Then I came across a Silversea Cruise through Western Europe with a stopover in Sorrento (a short drive to Positano), and I threw caution to the wind (despite my many concerns about the Crowds and heat We booked it in May and were ready to Rome End of June.

Even before the confirmation, I thought about all the logistics that we would have to manage: Traveling with an elderly parent means you do the work, Sorting flights, Packing listsExcursions and reservations. It wasn’t always easy, but we both got what we wanted: an incredible experience spending time together and traveling together.

Before I get into what we did and what I learned, here’s a quick summary of the details that will hopefully help you plan a similar trip:

• When you arrive: Plan to arrive at least one full day before your cruise departure to make sure you can make it. I arrived two days early, so I A day in Rome all alone.
• How to get there from the airport: Take the train if you are mobile and strong enough to carry yourself and your luggage. Mom, on the other hand, was coming from the west coast with an 8-hour layover. I arranged a car and driver for her in advance.
• Getting around the city: I walked everywhere, but the Public transportation is pretty great in Rome. My mom had to take taxis though.
• Where to stay: You can stay near the cruise port (it is located in Citavettia, about 90 minutes from the city center). Since I had two nights in Rome, I stayed at the Hotel Locarnonear Piazza del Popolo. It is beautifully designed, with an outdoor garden where we had breakfast and a rooftop bar and restaurant where we had dinner.
• What to pack: I hit pretty accurately to this listIt was the Peak of the summer heatSo I brought lots of sunscreen, a hat, comfortable walking shoes, and lots of light linen clothes.

Which cruise did you take? Where did it stop?

The 11-day cruise on board a Silversea Cruises ship, which Silver Whisper. We embarked from Citivecchia in Rome and visited the following ports: Sorrento (and the Amalfi Coast); Trapani in Sicily; Tunis, Tunisia; Valletta, Malta; Monopoli, Italy; Kotor, Montenegro; and Korčula, Šibenik and Rovinj in Croatia. We disembarked in Venice and flew home from there.

This was my second cruise with Silversea, so when I booked with only a month’s notice, I knew the quality of care and small ship size would be ideal for my mother. Silversea is a small luxury line known for its upscale service (each suite has a butler and attendant); all-inclusive meals and drinks from four different restaurants; a bar that also serves coffee and snacks throughout the day; room service (the food is really good and not just “cruise-only”); special excursions (some included, some not), and onboard entertainment (a nightly show, live music, games). We stayed in a Classic Veranda Suite, the second floor option.

What was the most touristy thing you did?

Our day trip along the Amalfi Coast was exactly what I expected. It was challenging to say the least. However, this was the real reason for the trip, so we chose a special add-on excursion that would take us to Positano by minibus.

Our Friday excursion at 9 a.m. took us by tender boat to the harbor in Sorrentowhere we met our guide and driver for the surprisingly short – but exceptionally beautiful – 40-minute drive to PositanoThe early hour meant that the The traffic wasn’t terribleand within an hour we explored the picturesque town.

What we found when we arrived was exactly what I had feared: crowds and heat at 10 a.m. My mother walks with a cane, so vertical nature this beautiful seaside town with its uneven, steep and slippery stone paths and stairs without railings meant that we had to take it very slowly and stop often to find a shady spot to rest.

When I say that I nearly killed 50 tourists who I thought were intentionally trying to push my mother to the ground during our chaotic descent… well, you get the idea. The sheer number of people who crowd into this tiny enclave every summer makes enjoying Positano (and the Amalfi Coast) a challenge for anyone, and even more so for those with mobility issues. But after about an hour, we reached the beach and for a moment, the crowd seemed to disperse.

Our trip included lunch at a luxury hotel, so we ate at The Saracens’ Covelocated just above the northern end of the beach. Here we could enjoy the peace and quiet of the magnificent views of the water, artfully arranged with bobbing yachts and the colorful buildings that populate the entire vertical cliff face. Viewed from a comfortably distant position, it was picture perfect.

This lunch was exactly what my mother had dreamed of. The food was a delight. Prosecco, perfectly ripe tomatoes, mozzarella, pasta – everything was exactly as you would want it. We left Positano full and happy – despite the crowds pouring off the ferries and further clogging the walkways, and an even hotter climb!

The essential point: my My mother was overjoyed by the whole experience, despite all the inconveniences. Her dream came true. And we’ll never have to do this again.

The most practical thing you packed?

It had to be the J. Crew wide-brimmed raffia hat. I bought it the day before I left – in that weird panicked moment I always experience before I go on a big trip – thinking I would some I wore it every day. This hat is also actually packable, unlike the many I’ve squashed in suitcases that never regain their original shape.

Your favorite port?

Korčula, Croatia. We had no plans, but as we boarded our dinghy to the island, I knew I had to go back. The pros and cons of a cruise are two sides of the same coin: 1) You get to see so many different destinations in one trip. 2) You’re never in one place long enough to really immerse yourself in the trip.

However, if you’re more of a glass-half-full type, it means you’ll immediately start making plans to return to a place you may have never heard of (I didn’t know Korčula) to spend more time there and immerse yourself more deeply in the town.

All day we just wandered around the surrounding and labyrinthine streets of the old town. I couldn’t take a bad photo. Everywhere I looked, I was presented with the image I didn’t know I needed to take. I’m sure that like all beautiful places on the Adriatic in the summer it can be crowded and full of tourists, but that day I didn’t feel that at all. It was even quiet.

We had lunch at Filippi, on the tree-covered waterfront on the eastern edge of town. We sat in the shade and watched the people pass by and the sparkling water. It’s fitting that I found Korčula such a rewarding discovery, given that it is the birthplace of Marco Polo.

The best food?

In Monopoli, Italy, I made lunch reservations for us at the delightful Locanda sul Porto, just west of the harbor. They have a lovely covered patio, but we ate inside by an open French window. I ordered an Aperol Spritz. We had fresh oysters and seafood pasta, and finished with a delicious chocolate dessert. The waitstaff was attentive and so helpful—we were all beaming. And even though it was a random Wednesday and we arrived right at opening time, it was packed with locals.

Best tip for someone who wants to make the same trip?

On Silversea and especially on the Whisperit is imperative to book the restaurants, spa treatments and excursions you want in advance. We were so late booking the entire trip that I didn’t even think about booking the individual restaurants (all but one onboard must be booked in advance) until I was running out of options. Many of the included port excursions were already booked and I never got the massage I was hoping for. And on land I made a few plans, but ultimately I should have booked more lunches and dinners so we could relax with a good meal on land.

We were never dissatisfied, mind you. The restaurant (that’s the name of the restaurant that doesn’t require advance reservations) had different specials every night, so it didn’t feel too monotonous. And those specials were reminiscent of the harbor, which was a nice touch. We also enjoyed ordering room service, especially the huge burger and sweet potato fries.

My favorite meal on the ship, however, was at La Dame, the French gourmet restaurant. It costs extra, but it is definitely worth it. The Sole Menieure (fish in a lemony butter sauce with parsley) was as good as any I’ve ever had (even in France). And I don’t even want to get started on the caviar service with its accompanying egg and shallot pieces, crème fraîche and soft, pillowy blinis. I’m still blown away by those tiny spoons.