Fast, What is the difference between a bistro and a brasserie?

Generally speaking, a bistro is a small, independent establishment with short menus and one or two specialties, often associated with the part of France the owners are from. In contrast, brasseries are larger and fancier establishments, often located on the boulevards, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Menus offer pastries, sandwiches, cheeses and charcuterie in addition to full meals.

Opened in spring 2022 at 212 West 12th Street on Greenwich Avenue, Mino Brasserie qualifies as such, due to the breadth of its menu and the size of its dining room, which seats 80 guests inside and on an airy veranda, though it only serves dinner and weekend brunch. I’ve been going there since it opened and was initially drawn to its origins in nearby St. Tropez, a well-regarded wine bar that focuses on French vintages, some imported by the owners, and small plates mostly from the South of France.

The owners are Yohann Pecheux, Fabien Pichard and Ulrick Lerissel, and the chef is Gerald Barthelemy, who worked at the Hotel Vernet on the Champs Elysee. The space exudes elegance, with embossed copper ceilings, weathered mirrors, a zinc bar that looks directly into the kitchen, and seating on benches and sturdy chairs around tables that circle the room like tourists on the subway. It’s hard to believe that the place was once the Village Den Diner.

The menu is mostly French, and includes a selection of French cheeses and charcuterie, a raw bar, nearly 10 appetizers, more than a dozen main courses, several sides, and a handful of desserts. There are few surprises, but you don’t expect surprises from a brasserie. The food is carefully prepared and a little less expensive than you might fear given the West Village location. And the French wine list is diverse and affordable.

Dishes I liked included Crevettes a l’aioli ($23), a handful of allspice-seasoned shrimp resting on a warm tarragon aioli swirl. Originally from St. Tropez, this dish is the essence of Provencal cuisine. And the side salad was tasty, too.

Oeufs mimosa ($14) were also great, stuffed eggs with strips of toast and partially hidden in a tangle of lettuce, three halves in total but difficult to divide. The snail appetizer was the only thing I didn’t like in three visits: instead of simple garlic and butter, the snails were encrusted with a thick paste of herbs, breadcrumbs and sun-dried tomatoes, which masked the texture and nutty flavor we’ve come to love.

Arguably the best appetizer for two or more guests (or as a main course for one) is a cheese and charcuterie board, composed of four meats and four cheeses. It comes with a variety of sides, including pear chutney, fresh figs, apple compote and gherkins. My favorite offerings were a house-made pâté, chunky and peppery, and rosette de Lyon, a hard garlic sausage (choice of two meats or cheeses, $17). What a bargain!

Now for the mains, which are also fairly conventional. The steak frites ($39) are the best in the West Village, a plump chicken breast cooked to perfect medium rare and doused in a zesty green pepper sauce. The fries are so perfect that they are a must-order whether you order the steak or not (as a side, $8). The fried chicken breast, sprinkled with a generous amount of morels in a sauce reminiscent of American chicken and dumplings, is a good choice. So is the salade nicoise ($22), with eggs, tomatoes, olives and anchovies, and slices of fresh tuna, fully cooked.

Desserts are plentiful and generously portioned, making them ideal for sharing. One Sunday afternoon, when I was there with two other diners, we shared a portion of profiteroles ($14), vanilla ice cream in choux pastry, finished off tableside with a drizzle of thick chocolate sauce.

Of course, you’ll want a glass of wine with your meal. The menu is mostly French, organized by region, with a handful of beers and champagnes. The selection of 19 wines by the glass is as well chosen as any wine bar: Go for one of the wines imported by the accompanying wine bar, both for its unique character and its bargain price. The St. Tropez Sauvignon Blanc ($14) was crisp, full-bodied and dry, with a lovely straw color. (Prices range from $14 to $24, with plenty of offerings on the lower end.) Paired with the charcuterie platter, with its vinegar and garlic flavors, it was a sublime experience.