Some of us have been in Santa Fe long enough to resent certain changes in the community. This is true in the restaurant world as well. We like what we like here.
The old Carrow’s, where I drank coffee at 1 a.m. with a group of friends affectionately called the Power Breakfast Squad, is now a bank; the former JB’s, where my parents took me for an obscene brownie dessert after a high test score in 6th grade, is a Weck’s; Bobcat Bite is… well, Bobcat Bite is now Jambo Bobcat Bite, and owner/chef Ahmed Obo’s burger tastes so much like the original restaurant’s that it often brings a wave of nostalgia over me, so no complaints. But when it comes to Dinner for two (106 N Guadalupe St., (505) 820-2075)I thought it was the breakfast place OJ Sarah’s for so long that I think I made a big mistake – I ignored one of the best restaurants in town for far too long.
Try to understand that there is also a money issue. Before I wrote food for a living and had those sweet, sweet work dollars to eat with, I justified my misguided distrust of Dinner For Two by saying it was all about my bank account. Dinner For Two is faaaaaar cheaper than I thought, though (especially during happy hour from 4-6:30pm—and the menu says you can only stay for two hours). So, maybe a little to reasonable price. Don’t get me wrong, it’s at least a little more expensive than your average $12 burger joint, but how do they manage to make two people eat way too much for around $100? Anyway, even if it weren’t more affordable than it seems possible, the price is really just the highlight; Dinner For Two is a complete experience.
That is, we arrived late, without a reservation (albeit dressed a little nicer than usual). My tablemate had expressed concerns about a long wait before we arrived, but I brushed them off—you know, like an idiot. And although the restaurant’s patio was a hive of activity beneath the pink neon sign that advises diners to “Feed me cocktails and tell me I’m pretty,” after I sheepishly said, “Two, please, but we don’t have a reservation,” the friendly host not only greeted us warmly, but seated us immediately. Well, Dinner For Two has that aforementioned patio, and that’s where everyone wants to sit. We happily took a table for two inside, however, by a window overlooking Guadalupe Street, and apologized profusely for showing up unannounced. “It’s OK, man,” the host said. “We’re glad you’re here.” And it was a good thing. From our table, we could see the cacophonous show of Dinner For Two’s open concept kitchen. We watched Caesar salads and Bananas Foster and Chateaubriand being prepared tableside (an option only to be served in the restaurant, according to the menu). We also had a fantastic server whose attentiveness was only matched by his relaxed yet professional demeanor. We never lacked for anything, and instead of flooding our senses with a series of disingenuous lies about how much he enjoyed refilling water, he spoke to us like we were human beings. Wildly.
The evening began with a rather sophisticated cranberry cinnamon mocktail ($8). Our server told us the bartender was a wizard, and he wasn’t lying. Of course, I was worried that the sweet cinnamon notes would clash with the tart cranberries, but I was completely wrong, and the accompanying candied lime slice provided a subtle but welcome zing of citrus.
As for the food, we started with the salmon and chips appetizer ($15). How could I have never seen fish and chips with salmon before? Dinner For Two’s version was well-fried and not particularly greasy, even when it came to the fries (aka chips), and the unexpected and buttery salmon tantalized our taste buds and appetite without breaking our budget.
When it came time to choose our mains, we were spoiled for choice. Andy Barnes, owner and executive chef of Dinner For Two, is known for well-prepared steaks and quality seafood like lobster tails, but his restaurant’s menu clearly has more to offer than surf ‘n’ turf. Still, we wanted it all. Rather than plunking down a steak at the end, which we both still say probably would have been amazing, my companion opted for the hickory-smoked fajitas ($33), while I chose the crispy French-style chicken breast ($28).
Listen carefully when I tell you that we’ve never tasted fajitas like the ones at Dinner For Two. Some say the smoky flavor of hickory is very reminiscent of bacon, but its use in this dish puts bacon to shame. In fact, the fajitas were almost cheeky with their tongue-slapping flavor profile—a sweet and savory combination that effortlessly shifted between the two. This was the kind of dish people reserve the word “umami” for, and the tender chunks of beef absorbed the flavorful hickory so beautifully that all we could say for several minutes was “Oh my God.” True story.
The chicken certainly held its own alongside the fajitas, and it was pretty satisfying to see a French-style chicken breast—a process that leaves the wing bone attached to the breast—on a local menu. At Dinner For Two, the breast is stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes, Gruyère cheese, and a Cabernet glaze, and the “crispy” part may make it the locally available chicken dish to beat. According to our server, the kitchen first bakes the breast at a specific temperature before removing it from the oven and briefly crisping it on the stove. This allows the flavors of the glaze and filling inside to mingle, but it also adds a crunchy texture to balance out the more delicate elements and the mix of cheese and tomatoes. I’ve dreamed about this chicken more than once since then, and I’m not sure I’ll feel sane again if I don’t eat it again soon. Dramatic? Definitely. Over the top? Nope.
We ended the evening with a fun and fruity dessert called Coconut in Paradise—a not-quite-enough portion of coconut mousse served in a half-chocolate ball with blackberries and mangos scattered across the plate. At $15, this deliciousness seemed a little pricey for a dessert, especially since each of us could have easily eaten our own. Sometimes guests feel oversatiated after desserts, but this delicious mix was refreshing and not too sweet. Like the rest of the menu, it featured dishes we both knew well, just in flavors, textures, and combinations we weren’t familiar with. What a waste of time it was not to eat at Dinner For Two all the time. I’d even pay my own money.
