Jun Takahashi stumbled upon Australian band Glass Beams on YouTube and shared his discovery by screening a music video of the mysterious trio as the backdrop to his spring men’s fashion show for Undercover on Wednesday.
Their psychedelic strumming, hypnotic vocals and jewel-encrusted face masks – reminiscent of Kanye West in 2021 but more exotic – enhanced the “West Asian, Middle Eastern vibe” he acknowledged backstage, while saying the collection was based on “fictional tribes.”
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Takahashi turned to linen—the fabric of the season—in all its crumpled, gossamer glory, brushing it with floating cloud motifs and cutting it into light, unstructured jackets and blousons with a bohemian vibe and wide, droopy sleeves. Some cardigan-like jackets were embellished with ribbons or tassels, others with colorful, mismatched buttons or detachable sleeves.
The photo patches, roses and punky slogans that had made Undercover a streetwear darling were less visible—the words “Risk” and “Rejoice” adorned one sleeve—and some haunted house motifs appeared on cloud-covered shirts and blazers.
Overall, however, this was a more introspective and contemplative collection, a feeling enhanced by the models’ lace eye masks, their gold tiaras with protruding spikes, and the languid and flowing silhouettes that culminated in floor-length skirts in sheer jersey or even more linen.
Through an interpreter, Takahashi said he wanted to add a little “feminine taste” to his menswear offering. There was even a hint of Rue Cambon in the brocade cardigans, with pockets and hems decorated with gold chains.
In contrast, there were plenty of activewear silhouettes, including airy nylon parkas, baggy hoodies and a collaboration with Champion on oversized sweatshirts and short sweatpants.
Incidentally, Glass Beams will be touring Europe and North America this summer, having already played half a dozen sold-out shows in Australia. They will probably wear Undercover.
Click here to read more reviews of Paris menswear for Spring 2025.
Launch Gallery: Undercover Spring 2025 Men’s Collection
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