Day 98: 1732.8 – 1749.2 (16.4 miles)
Today I hiked mostly alone through the hills of Vermont, tackling steep climbs and descents on my way to Hanover, New Hampshire and the famous White Mountains. The day was uneventful until I reached West Hartford, where I happened to discover a farmer’s market. I had the perfect amount of time to enjoy Indian food and cookies with other hikers. After spending a few hours there, I hiked on to Happy Hill Shelter with Gandalf the Red and Birdy.
Birdy and I reminisced about what we’ll miss about life on the trail as the end draws near and there are only two states left. We thought about the freedom of being able to pee anywhere, the immersion in nature, the constant movement, the tangible progress toward a concrete goal, the ability to eat anything, time our sleep schedule with the sun, bring everything we need with us, the simplicity of focusing only on food and water, and, most importantly, the sense of community.
That night Gandalf arranged for us to stay at a Trail Angel in Norwich (just outside of Hanover), along with Fresh, Talley Joe and Putt Putt.
Day 99: 1749.2 – 1755 (5.8 miles)
Talley Joe, Fresh and Putt Putt joined us in the morning. We met Jenny, the Trail Angel, who showed us our accommodations and explained the house rules. We then went to the Dartmouth dining hall, which offers a buffet for long-distance hikers. The food was delicious and plentiful.
My insoles had worn out, so I accompanied Gandalf on a three-bus ride to a nearby outfitter to get replacements. I was looking forward to getting back into society and the freedom of movement that would bring. With new socks and insoles in hand, we made our way back to Jenny’s house.
Day 100: 1755 – 1766 (11 miles)
In the morning we did laundry for the next group of hikers before grabbing a late breakfast at Lou’s. Gandalf the Red and I left town around noon, and New Hampshire greeted us with a steep climb and rain. That evening Gandalf marched on to cover more miles while Fresh, Ketchup (a new acquaintance), Talley Joe and Putt Putt stayed in the shelter to avoid the downpour.
Day 101: 1766 – 1783.7 (17.7 miles)
Fresh and Talley Joe decided to slow down, so I hiked alone for most of the day. Tropical Storm Debbie threatened to bring 1 to 2 inches of rain. I moved quickly, hoping to beat the storm, and arrived at the Hexacube Shelter just as it started to rain. The shelter, named for its hexagonal shape on Mount Cube, was not suitable for housing hikers, but we managed to accommodate 12 people by setting up a tent to keep out the rain.
The storm was fierce, several trees fell and a hiker who narrowly escaped an accident was frightened away. Despite the chaos, I stayed dry and survived the night unscathed.
Day 102: 1783.7 – 1798.3 (14.6 miles)
The morning was soaked and the trail was like a giant puddle. Despite the aftermath of the storm, Putt Putt and I hiked together and talked about life, love, future technology and dancing. Around 3pm we arrived at the Hiker Welcome Hostel where a Trail Angel offered us burgers and hot dogs. I considered hiking further but decided to stay because of the forecasted rain. Miss Janet, a well-known Trail Angel who follows the group of hikers, took us to a gas station where we were able to stock up on some supplies.
Day 103: 1798.3 – 1815.3 (17 miles)
The day began with the climb up Mount Moosilauke, a steady climb of 1,000 to 1,200 feet per mile, reaching an elevation of 4,700 feet at 11 a.m. The summit offered 360-degree views, alpine surroundings, and even a beer from a day hiker. The descent was steep, dropping 1,600 feet in a mile, following a stream with waterfalls that made the rocks smooth.
After the descent, we experienced some magic on the trail with fruit and sodas. Putt Putt and I then tackled Mt. Wolf, which proved more challenging than expected with its boulders, roots, and mud pits. Exhausted, I arrived at Eliza Brook Shelter, where I pitched my tent among 20 other hikers and endured more rain that night.
Day 104: 1815.3 – 1824.1 (8.8 miles)
The day began with a steep climb up South Kinsman Mountain, climbing 2,000 feet in 2.5 miles. Exhausted from the previous day, I struggled through. We then descended about 3,000 feet in 6 miles to Interstate 93 and walked another mile to the Flume Gorge Visitor Center parking lot. After a 30-minute wait in the rain, we hitchhiked to The Notch Hostel.
I bought new shoes from the post office, borrowed a bike from the hostel and rode 2.5 kilometers before it closed. I stocked up on supplies and had dinner in town before cycling back to the hostel. Tasks in town always seem to take more time than expected.
Day 105: 1824.1 – 1834.5 (10.4 miles)
The hostel offered a 7:20am shuttle to the trailhead. The day promised a steep climb and the famous Franconia Ridge. The climb was challenging, especially the 2,000 feet over 1.5 miles. We took advantage of a gap in the clouds to climb Mount Liberty. The trail then followed the ridge obscured by clouds and faced a sustained 20 mph wind. Eventually we reached Mount Garfield and camped at the AMC campground near the Garfield Shelter.
Day 106: 1834.5 – 1848.9 (14.5 miles)
We started with a steep descent of Mount Garfield, followed by a ridge hike to Galehead Hut, operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club. We enjoyed a second breakfast and coffee before climbing South Twin Mountain and continuing along the ridge to Mount Guyot. Putt Putt and I had lunch there and then climbed Zealand Mountain.
The descent from Zealand Mountain to Zealand Falls Hut was steep. Inside the hut, a group of hikers were playing the Appalachian Trail board game – I didn’t win, though. After the hut, the trail leveled off and I took a side trail to Thoreau Falls. There I spent time with Hell Bender, Night Watch, and BiBo before heading to Ethan Pond for sunset dinner and camping.
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