As the sun sinks behind the horizon, I set up my tent in the sand.
My fellow campers are busy preparing their beds for the night. I leave my door unzipped, lie down on my sleeping bag and look at the splendor of our surroundings.
This place in Vietnam is a strip of sand like no other, located deep within the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park – in the vast cave chamber of Son Doong.
When you explore the interior, it feels like you are walking through the heart of the earth.
Since only 1,000 visitors in groups of 10 are allowed each year, the six-day trekking tours with the only approved tour operator, Oxalis Adventures, are quickly booked out.
Laura Sharman remembers pitching her tent on the sandy riverbank of Son Doong Cave in Vietnam. She spent the first night of her six-day trek camping on the beach at Hang En Cave (file image above).
Vietnamese authorities and the Guinness Book of Records have confirmed that the cave is the largest in the world. In 2012, the cave was declared to be 200 m high, 150 m wide and “at least” 6.5 km long.
When the record was confirmed, the organization acknowledged that the cave could be even larger as it had not yet been fully explored.
Oxalix Adventures estimates the length at just under 9 km (5.5 miles), providing enough space for the extensive jungle, the river, the weather system and a 60-story skyscraper.
Remarkably, it remained sealed for millions of years before being discovered by chance in 1990.
It was a local named Ho Khanh who stumbled upon this underground wonder while seeking shelter from a storm, my guide tells me.
The villager was searching for an expensive plant called agarwood and came across the entrance to a cave under a cliff. As he approached, he saw mist blowing out and the sound of a river could be heard inside.
Almost two decades later, the site was shared with speleologists and the first pilot tours took place in 2013, followed by the official start of the Son Doong expedition one year later.
It’s the most surreal campsite I’ve ever seen.
As I look out of my tent, I take a deep breath as the sun casts an enchanting glow into the cave.
The distant echo of the dripping water is a soothing lullaby as I lie down for the night, wrapped in the massive limestone walls that surround me.
The cave has been confirmed by Vietnamese authorities and the Guinness Book of Records as the largest in the world. In 2012, it was stated to be 200 m high, 150 m wide and “at least” 6.5 km long.
Son Doong is located deep in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Vietnam
In the misty morning, the first rays of sunlight penetrate through the opening of the cave, reminding us of the dense forest above.
I know it well by now, having completed the two-day hike of climbing over rocks, ropes and ladders to get here.
It started with a minibus dropping us off at the top of a valley at 9am and then we headed down into the jungle.
Water seeps through my boots as we wade through shallow rivers and streams, but they provide the grip needed for the steep climb to the first campsite in Hang En Cave—the first of two caves on this expedition.
When I walked to the mouth, I could have thought we had reached Son Doong earlier than planned.
According to Oxaxlis Adventures, it is the third largest cave in the world. The ceiling is 145 m (475 feet) high at its highest point and the widest section of the passage measures up to 200 m (656 feet).
Arriving at Hang En Cave (above), Laura says she thought her group had reached Son Doong earlier than planned, simply because of the sheer size of the cave.
Its size alone is impressive and exudes a spooky atmosphere. The only sound was the chirping of the swifts, which could be heard but not seen.
“This cave is named after the birds. They nest here,” said our guide.
There is time for a quick swim in the river while our porters prepare the kitchen and the cooks prepare several dishes for dinner.
Then we strengthen ourselves for the next day, when we will hike through the cave, wade through rivers and climb steep slopes.
As we reach the opening and descend on ropes 80 m (262 feet) underground, I realize how Son Doong could have remained hidden for so long.
As we descend, the huge cave passage slowly appears and the temperature suddenly drops to rock bottom.
After a lot of bouldering and climbing we reach the next campsite – this time in the epic cave of Son Doong.
It’s the moment we’ve all been waiting for and it feels like we’re entering another world.
The rock cave is so high that it takes your breath away – especially when you stretch your neck to look up.
Light streams into the chamber through the door, illuminating the bright green foliage beyond.
But it’s not enough to warm the sand on the ground, which is cold between my toes.
Son Doong Cave remained sealed for millions of years before it was discovered by chance in 1990.
To our surprise, toilets and changing tents have been set up in this desolate environment, giving us one of the most comfortable nights ever. I am looking forward to a restful sleep in this dark cocoon.
The next day we set off, climbing the steep walls of the cave and squeezing through small gaps to reach the forest inside.
The still, cold air is of an incomparable purity and the faint glimmers of light are very welcome in the darkness that we share with bats, spiders, fish and scorpions.
But the only glimpse I can make of these cave dwellers is the shadow of bats swooping down from the ceiling at dusk or disturbed by the light of our headlamps.
The moment when our guide tells us there are no more river crossings is glorious – and I stop to put on a pair of dry socks.
As we emerge from the cave, I watch the sun sink below the horizon again, and this time it is fully visible.
After several days underground, it’s a beautiful moment – but I’d trade it for another night in darkness if it meant returning to Son Doong.
Laura visited Hang Son Doong with Oxalis Adventure. Visit oxalisadventure.com.
