The stage is set: You are great at work. You have some extra money. It’s time for a nice watch. A Rolex Watch. There’s just one problem – or rather three. Unprecedented demand, a global pandemic and limited production mean there are too few watches for everyone.
Your best bet? The second-hand market, where there are plenty of offers and even bargains waiting for you. Here are some tips to help you start your search.
Think small, literally. There’s more to Rolex than Submariners, Daytonas and GMT-Master IIs. There’s a staggering array of options in the 34-36mm range, many under $5,000. Forget the small watch stigma and check out 36mm Datejusts and vintage 34mm Oyster Perpetuals. If under 40mm is good enough for Ryan Gosling, it’s good enough for you.
Study your goal. The Rolex world – vintage, used or new – is rife with fakes, “Frankenwatches” and all sorts of mischief. Once you’ve found a model you want to buy, educate yourself on what it should look like. Watch YouTube videos, go to boutiques and stores and start experimenting with watches. Talk to experts, buy reference material. This part may seem tedious, but it will save you a lot of hassle when it’s finally time to buy.
Buy from a reputable seller. Can you get a bargain at a random internet sale? Sure – but it’s risky. Instead, it’s best for newbies to start with established dealers. Two great places to start are Eric Wind of Wind Vintage and James Lamdin of Analog:Shift. These guys are absolute pros and if you check out their listings, you’ll find out what’s worth buying.
Take your time. Don’t rush the purchase and don’t buy the first watch you see. Look at 15 Datejusts if necessary, or at least two or three — that’s half the fun! Look for a piece that doesn’t require any additional maintenance or other costs. It’s much better to spend a little more on a watch that has already been properly serviced and is in good condition. Buying a “project watch” at an insane price is not for beginners.
Wear it until you can’t take it anymore. You deserve it! Just know that used (and particularly Vintage watches need special care. Don’t take them in the water unless they are specifically designed for that purpose. And only after you’ve pressure tested them. Also, keep in mind that it will need servicing at some point, and that won’t be cheap. The same goes for a sports car, a house, or anything cool that’s worth buying.
Need help deciding on a model to consider? Here are some models and rangers that are just right: timeless enough to wear, ordinary enough to be affordable.
